看得见城堡的窗口

入得谷来,祸福自求。
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CAVA
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看得见城堡的窗口

Post by CAVA » 2006-12-29 16:41

圣诞节期间的爱丁堡果然很冷。回来后我就毫无悬念地感冒了,不过这丝毫没有减少我对爱丁堡的热爱。小小的市中心好象怎么也走不厌,随便哪个街角望出去,视野里总有某一美丽的城市标志物,巴尔摩罗饭店的钟楼,城堡,长街另一端的王宫,斯各特纪念塔,和远处的海水,山坡上的好看房子,峡谷里的公园。

最让我中意的是爱丁堡的“国际化”气氛,很多的游客,很多的学生,很多种类的外语。旧城在阳光稀少的冬日其实很阴森,但街上走的人都带着在温暖地带度假那种放松的样子。

小咖啡馆特别多,而且不是千篇一律的Costa或Starbucks。我的众多偏见之一认为,独立经营的咖啡馆和小酒馆数量是城市文化的一个指标。走过乔治四世桥边的The Elephant House时,某人道:这个不是Rowling写Harry Potter的地方吗?我有段日子没发作Harry Potter热了,倒是忘了Rowling在爱丁堡住过。很普通的门脸,人行道上摆出的广告写着店里的特色饮品,并没有哪里提到Rowling或Harry Potter。这一点我很喜欢。

第二天中午不能免俗,特特拉了某人去那里。店在可爱的Victoria Street拐角处,隔壁是市立图书馆,对面是苏格兰国立图书馆。The Elephant House的名字来源于店里搜集的几百种有关大象的艺术品,short bread也做成憨憨的大象侧影。热饮的品种非常丰富,几天里城中到处飘着mulled wine的香气,很是馋人,我们也要了两杯,热乎乎地捧到走廊尽头的厅里。房间不大,古典风格的装修,简单舒服,七八张桌子,有一个人慢悠悠吃英式早餐的,有俩女友聊天的,后来的人捡起前面客人留下的报纸就看,一派闲适家常,只有我们象标准的游客,瞪着告示栏里有关Rowling的小剪报看。

所有的窗高而宽,因为有雾,影影瞳瞳可以看到不远处是片墓地,应该是传说中有鬼魂出没的Greyfriars Cemetery;按照地图,再远点是Edinburgh Castle了,天气好时应该看得很清楚。据说写第一部书时Rowling在这里消磨了大量的时间,我猜想着这两处被采用到书里某些场景的可能应该很大吧。耸立在危崖边的Edinburgh Castle,权威性和古老性多少有点象Hogworth School?Greyfriars Cemetery,太容易叫人联想起第四部电影里的那片墓地。爱丁堡旧城那些极窄极暗的胡同,和山腹里那些阴森森的地下街道,也都能在书里找到蛛丝马迹吧。

tautou
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Post by tautou » 2006-12-29 17:33

好怀念那些又暗又窄的胡同哦 :-D 一说起爱丁堡,我就想起当时与一同住在青年旅社的朋友跳舞后半夜在胡同小食店吃宵夜的场景 :music004: :music004: :music004:

来,看图说话一下 :mrgreen:

Image
Last edited by tautou on 2006-12-29 17:34, edited 1 time in total.

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2006-12-29 17:33

Damn you. I miss it so much. :cry:

The Castle! Words cannot express its imposing presence.

Dr. Doyle went to Edinburgh University's medical school. He had wandered the streets and pubs as a student of surgery.

Did you go to the Walter Scott/RL Stevenson museum?

豪情
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Post by 豪情 » 2006-12-29 18:39

写的真让人向往.

tiffany
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Post by tiffany » 2006-12-29 18:40

ah, I sooooooooooooooo wanna visit this city. Is it the Edinburgh of Queen of Scott as well?
有酒有酒 闲饮东窗

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2006-12-30 5:50

tiffany wrote:Is it the Edinburgh of Queen of Scott as well?
是,Holyrood Palace,就是Mary Queen of Scotts居住过和举行婚礼的王宫,也是丈夫在她面前杀死她传闻中情人的地方。

回Jun,我在Royal Mile上走来走去也没有找到Writers' Museum,莫非不在那里?

2号的这张图照得不错,你是8月份艺术节时候去的吗?夏天应该是最好的时节,天又长,也不太冷。有传说J. K. Rowling当初穷困时租了没有暖气的公寓,我想这可能性不大,冬天在爱丁堡给小孩住没有暖气的房子,社会福利机构大概要干预的。到咖啡店待着省取暖费倒有可能。

tautou
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Post by tautou » 2006-12-30 8:25

我是复活节过去玩儿哒 :mrgreen:

Writers' Museum我不知道,但威士忌博物馆我倒是经过数次,可惜一次也没进去过 :roll:

karen
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Post by karen » 2006-12-30 18:09

这几天怎么总觉得少点啥,倒是被你提醒了,今晚就烧个mulled wine。

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2006-12-30 19:37


ravaged
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Post by ravaged » 2007-08-03 7:07

i hope to go to scotland in about a week (seeing that i can't get a visa to anywhere else other than the UK in time). didn't know this is festival month... :shock: you guys who've been there - any hotel/B&B recs? thanks!
Now that happy moment between the time the lie is told and when it is found out.

Jun
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Post by Jun » 2007-08-03 7:29

Oh my! You should try to book something now if you plan to stay in Edinburgh.

Green with envy here. :speechless001: :frog:

CAVA
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Post by CAVA » 2007-08-03 8:51

Hmm, if the festival is on next week then you will either get no room at all or crazy prices in Edinburgh.

I've only stayed in the previous InterContinental, and know of a Holiday Inn Express, should be clean and comfortable though a bit plastic. This one (1 Picardy Place) is not that far from the city centre either. Link to google map:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=l&hl=en ... 43001&z=15

Have noticed some nice looking family run hotels along Regent Terrace. Also George Street is a very good location.

ravaged
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Post by ravaged » 2007-08-03 16:32

argh, nothing reasonable is left in edinburgh. i'm beginning to think that maybe i don't want to see 200,000 drunk tourists anyway...

maybe i'll do the highlands instead. has anyone been there?
Now that happy moment between the time the lie is told and when it is found out.

Knowing
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Post by Knowing » 2007-08-03 21:17

I hiked at Scottish Borders for a couple of days a few years ago. It was lovely and I always wanted to go back. I remember staying at a small town called melrose, had wonderful dinner at a restaurant converted from an old house. The old couple running B&B were so nice and breakfast freshly made with veggies from their garden. They also had a big black cat which hunted rabbits in the wild. It was not far Edinburgh, several hours drive I think.
Too bad I did not save any info from the trip :(


http://www.melrose.bordernet.co.uk/
Nevertheless, she persisted.

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