啊维也纳

CAVA · Post by **CAVA** » 2007-06-11 13:43

好象不加“啊”就不足以表达抒情效果。维也纳机场一出来，坐上出租车，就听到音响里播着圆舞曲。几乎没跟司机打听，在维也纳的出租车里放圆舞曲，是不是也算服务的必然组成部分，好象28度的天气一定要开空调？

一进市区立刻看到上白下红，身体窄窄，样式古老的有轨电车。前两次在此地游逛的回忆立刻涌现出来。人和城市之间，也象人和人之间，是有化学可言的吧。我对维也纳的钟情，如果要具体解释，有轨电车可以排在理由之三。之一是无处不在，几乎弥漫在空气中的音乐；之二是既典雅，又市民的咖啡馆，在这样色彩华丽，墙上非镶满镜子即挂遍画页的地方，于宽大舒适的桌上铺开报纸，浸染在咖啡的浓郁香气中，太容易沉醉。甚至甜点也可以算作我喜欢维也纳的理由，那些蛋糕精致如艺术品，即使平时不爱甜食的人也要在擦得锃亮的玻璃柜台前流连。更不用说漂亮的建筑，林荫覆盖的环城路，和多瑙河的波澜了。

旅店被安排在著名的Prater旁边，从出租车上就可以看到摩天转轮上古老的车厢。Prater号称世界上最古老的游乐场，1766年由前皇家猎场转向公众开放。几年前朋友曾经特地带我们来这里坐摩天轮，对维也纳人来说，童年的记忆和这片游乐场是分不开的。因为旅店里没有餐厅，前台告诉我到Prater去找食物。晚上8点多种，游人仍然不少。不久闻到动物的气味，哈，旋转马车原来是真的马拉的。

Inforamtion的姑娘指引我到最有名的Restaurant Schweizerhaus，听起来是以肉类为主，具有维也纳特色的餐厅。一进去就被宏大的场面吓了一跳，整个啤酒花园怕不有几百食客，人声鼎沸，清一色的男侍者忙得不亦乐乎，大杯冒着白沫的啤酒一托盘一托盘那样地上，每盘有15大杯！好不容易找到地方坐下来，然后在本店特色烤蹄胖，维也纳炸猪排和匈牙利古拉许之间犹豫了好一会儿，点了看上去份量最小的古拉许。很快捷克Budva生啤酒和菜就上来了，古拉许汁浓肉烂，配了土豆块，一根切花的法兰克福肠，一条酸黄瓜，几片泡辣椒。啤酒清而甜，牛肉香又酥，深得我这个非肉食动物的赞赏。巨型烤蹄胖的点击率极高，但是幸亏没点它，不然到下星期也吃不完。晚饭一共11点6欧元，价廉物美。等我吃完往外走的时候，新的客人还成群结队往里走。是啊，晚风习习树叶微拂的夏夜，在露天大块肉，大碗酒地享受美丽时光，本来人多才最有意思。

抒情完毕，明天还要开会。

Jun · Post by **Jun** » 2007-06-11 13:56

听好几个人说奥地利人最冷淡排外，对外国人态度最差，是不是真的？

森林的火焰 · Post by **森林的火焰** » 2007-06-11 13:57

我就是看吃的最提神，一下子就不困了。

维也纳这看着也不贵啊，为什么我们以前的德国女生总说维也纳贵，又想去又去不起――她还是做医生的。

CAVA · Post by **CAVA** » 2007-06-11 14:07

凡事都是相对的。我没觉得奥地利人比德国人冷淡到哪里去。常去的地方里，伦敦和哥本哈根最贵，法国人最冷淡排外。不过在一个地方蜻蜓点水一样两三天，也看不出实质来。

karen · Post by **karen** » 2007-06-11 14:33

Nah, people in Vienna are pretty nice, I didn't get the impression that they are cold. The city is beautiful and musical and clean, and the surrounding area is scenic. Besides, even if they are 排外, you don't have to worry about it as a tourist. They certainly welcome tourists there.

豪情 · Post by 豪情 » 2007-06-11 14:38

我也特别喜欢维也纳. 美丽干净放松, 真正过日子的好地方. 主城区没什么高建筑, 旧建筑城区保护的特别好. 奶制品和香肠真香. 他们至少对陌生人和游客粉友好礼貌. 城市里不太看得到移民, 也许是说他们排外的原因?

伦敦和哥本哈根最贵，法国人最冷淡排外

这个我很同意. 除了把法国人换成巴黎人. 维也纳比意大利还便宜, 不要说北欧英国和法国啦.
VIENNA最近两年都排在最宜居住城市榜首, VANCOUVER因为物价太高落到第二了.

camellia · Post by **camellia** » 2007-06-11 15:37

At least my mom likes Vienna, she lived there for one year, told me that people are nice there.
About french people, not only one of them answered:" I don't speak English." when I asked for directions in Paris. And the waiters were just rude.

花差花差小将军 · Post by **花差花差小将军** » 2007-06-11 15:51

Oh, it depends where you go and whom you meet. In Paris, it happend twice that when I was studying my map, two Parisans offered help by asking me in English

And the waiter and chef was so very kind to me during my very first visit to the city and my French was worse then

豪情 · Post by 豪情 » 2007-06-11 17:36

Probably it depends what you wear.

lindamm · Post by **lindamm** » 2007-06-11 19:15

我只去过维也纳一次，也不过3，4天而已。觉得吃的不是特别好――肉类居多，不合喜欢海鲜的我的胃。但是那里节奏很慢，冰激凌很好吃（仅次于意大利），人也很和善。

我的好朋友在南德长大，后来特地选择慕尼黑的办公室工作，就是因为那边物价相对便宜很多。后来一推荐，她的表妹也跑到维也纳去做交换学生。本来说半年，结果足晃了一年，还叫他美国的父母去度假，想来欧洲的大学比美国的要轻松很多呢

sinca · Post by **sinca** » 2007-06-11 20:20

karen wrote:Nah, people in Vienna are pretty nice, I didn't get the impression that they are cold. The city is beautiful and musical and clean, and the surrounding area is scenic. Besides, even if they are 排外, you don't have to worry about it as a tourist. They certainly welcome tourists there.

提到为人nice, 说句闲话 - 昨天早上在香港机场过关的时候，我后边一英俊的老头儿打电话的时候一个劲儿地说"si, si"，我就猜他是意大利人，等到他以"ciao"结束对话的时候，我就更确信不疑了。排队挺长的，就忍不住搭话和他聊了一会儿天。
等到他以后说起中国人，肯定会觉得中国人很nice吧。

21grams · Post by **21grams** » 2007-06-12 10:17

Now I want to go back to Vienna and have some goulash. Western Europeans are not cold AT ALL compared to their Eastern counterparts.

camellia · Post by **camellia** » 2007-06-12 11:18

豪情 wrote:Probably it depends what you wear.

I guess my student looks didn't impress Parisan that much.

花差花差小将军 · Post by **花差花差小将军** » 2007-06-12 11:21

I always dress casual in jeans when I travel, only pack a dress or two in case never hardly use them.

camellia · Post by **camellia** » 2007-06-12 11:41

Anyway, during more than 25 days stay in Paris, I found it is kind gray and cold. I did meet nice people, such as the bread store owner who was my neighboor. But most of people I met there were cold. Maybe it's place I've been staying, it was between Arc de Triomphe and LaFayette hotel. Close to that big forest. People were kind of snob over there.

花差花差小将军 · Post by **花差花差小将军** » 2007-06-12 11:45

I once stayed in the 1e, not far from the Pompidou Ctr, the other times I stayed in Marais. I like Marais.

karen · Post by **karen** » 2007-06-12 12:35

Yeah, maybe Camellia stayed in the old-money neighborhood where people view tourists as intruders. I stayed in Les Halles, and it was very lively and friendly. The coolest place to stay in Paris, imho, is Marais. It is like Soho, very young and chic. It used to be the Jewish ghetto I think. 风水轮流转阿。

I think the only undisputedly friendly country is Italy.

花差花差小将军 · Post by **花差花差小将军** » 2007-06-12 12:37

especially to women

Jun · Post by **Jun** » 2007-06-12 13:37

I think the only undisputedly friendly country is Italy.

Among European countries maybe. I had a good experience in Denmark.

The friendliest country I have been to, hands down, is New Zealand. I've never met a sweeter bunch.

Canadians were nice to me too, in Toronto and Newfoundland.

camellia · Post by **camellia** » 2007-06-12 13:40

Wow, you stayed at all the hip areas.
I still remember I was somewhere around that huge underground market, and people were dancing in the street. Many artist kind of looking people was hunging out around there and they were nice to every one.